Mountain Dreaming: Jarabacoa

Morning in Jarabacoa

Vibrant, cool, and filled with charm, the mountains around Jarabacoa are speckled with enchanting villages, beautiful scenery, and perfect spots for outdoor adventure. Jarabacoa, the largest town in the Cordillera Central, is home to almost 30,000 people, besides all of the weekend visitors. Despite being a major destination, the town maintains an intimate and friendly atmosphere.

Jarabacoa is home to three rivers and therefore to an array of sports like whitewater rafting, kayaking, canyoneering, swimming, biking, hiking, and even hang-gliding.

View from Aroma de la Montaña

Where to Eat

La Fleca Panadería

Flaky croissants and crusty artisanal breads are among the specialties of this cute café as well as sinful desserts and savory finger foods. RD$75- 120; 574-4811; Located on C/ Independencia near the Caribe Tours stop and across from Esso Gas; lipebeltran@hotmail.com; www.laflecajaraba.com

Aroma de la Montaña

For a 180-degree view of the valley of Jarabacoa and the mountains that surround it, head to this upscale restaurant at the Jamaca de Dios hotel. Save room for the fine desserts: the brownie packed with chocolate chips, coconut, almonds, and rum is a favorite. RD$170-990; Located in Jamaca de Dios hotel near the village of Pinar Quemado on the road to Manabao; 829-452-6867/6878; www.aromadelamontana.com

Where to Sleep

A typical country cabin just outside of town

Ramírez Tours

Owned by the energetic Jarabacoa native Altagracia Ramírez, this small company is a wonderful resource for those interested in renting short- or long-term cabins. Señora Ramírez also offers ideas about excursions and other tourism services in the area.

36 Av. La Confluencia; 574-6604; 399-6748; U.S. phone: 347-827-2824; Ramíreztours4@gmail.com

Angostura

A community organization provides rustic eco-lodges in the remote village of Angostura. The three environmentally friendly lodges sleep six people, and the bathrooms are connected to a biodigestor that powers the complex. The organization offers hiking, horseback riding, and whitewater rafting excursions. In addition, trained guides lead Pico Duarte tours that begin at the La Ciénaga trailhead. Approximately three kilometers south of Manabao; contact Marite at 910-7520 or Inocencia at 829-539-8753

Gran Jimenoa

Salto de Jimenoa Uno

Living up to its tagline of “a hidden paradise,” the resort of Gran Jimenoa is certainly the most luxurious in the valley, with an impressive collection of orchids, impeccable landscaping, and excellent service. Though all of the rooms feature large windows, ask for one of the spacious rooms facing the Río Jimenoa to enjoy the view and sound of its powerful beauty. RD$1,225- 14,900 per room; Av. La Confluencia, Los Corralitos; 574-6304/4345; hotel.jimenoa@codetel.net.do; www.granjimenoahotel.com

What to Do

Salto de Jimenoa Uno

This first waterfall on the Río Jimenoa is hidden in the forest, only accessible via a good long hike through the woods. This waterfall is not only 60 meters high but also plunges into a refreshing swimming hole below. The entrance fee directly supports community members who serve as guides. RD$100 foreigners, RD$50 Dominicans; 7 kilometers on the highway toward Constanza next to a restaurant; (motoconcho RD$80-100; taxi RD$250); 271- 8580; 829-828-7708; interpretesdelasmontanas.7@hotmail.com

Salto de Jimenoa Dos

The hike to these 40-meter-high falls is much easier, including crossing a few narrow hanging bridges surrounded by verdant woodlands. The short walk the ends at the stunning waterfall and bathing area. RD$100; 5 kilometers on the highway to La Vega, go right at the fork with well-marked signs

Rancho Baiguate

Whitewater rafting on the Yaque del Norte River In business since 1975, this company run by the Rodríguez-Ros family offers a multitude of adventure sports while maintaining strong ties to the environment and surrounding communities. Nearly all of its employees are from Jarabacoa, and the ranch has implemented environmentally friendly practices. Although the ranch is all-inclusive, it also offers a la carte activities, like rafting, rappelling, horseback riding, hiking to Pico Duarte, mountain biking, canyoneering, and a zip-line course. Prices vary depending on package; 574-6890, from the U.S. 646-727-7783; rancho.baiguate@verizon.net.do; reservas@ranchobaiguate.com; www.ranchobaiguate.com

MWVA

A country kitchen of a local about to invite you in for coffee

A small art school, café, and cultural center with local artisanal crafts for sale, this is the place to meet up with creative locals. Stop by for exhibitions of painting, sculpture, photography, film, and music. On Friday and Saturday, there are cultural activities, including live music, starting after 6pm for free or minimal cover. 19 C/ Independencia at C/ Duarte; 574-7055; mwvagaleriadearte@hotmail.com; Open Mon-Fri until 6pm.

For more information, check out the chapter on Jarabacoa in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide).

Mountain Dreaming: Hoyo del Pino

Hoyo del Pino

Seventeen kilometers uphill from Bonao into the pine forests of the Cordillera Central is the small valley village of Hoyo del Pino. In 2004, community members founded a non-profit dedicated to the conservation of the area around a tributary of the Yuna River. 

The recently completed Río Blanco Ecotourism Complex provides a peek into the wilderness and coffee farms around the village. The center offers hiking treks guided by local experts, birding tours of endemic and migratory species, and visits to mountain-cold swimming holes. Other attractions include one of the highest waterfalls in the country, coffee production demonstrations and tasting, and a stop at a bamboo artisan’s workshop. The complex’s restaurant, Rancho Don José, serves up locally grown and sourced Dominican favorites. Proceeds go to ecosystem preservation efforts and improving economic opportunities for local families around the project area. 

La Estancia del Río

Sleep

La Estancia del Río offers ten double bedrooms with private bathrooms and hot water at RD$1300 a night per person (includes breakfast, lunch and dinner). For large groups, the collective lodge is ideal with 70 bunk beds and shared hot-water bathrooms. Staying with a host family is the most economical (and adventurous) option, providing guests with a glimpse into the local way of life. Reservations are strongly recommended.  

(809) 310 5767; contacto.coeturb@gmail.com; https://sites.google.com/site/visitacoeturb/; https://www.facebook.com/COETURB

Mountain Dreaming: Constanza

Golden fields in the valley of Constanza

The craggy peaks of the Cordillera Central cascade down into this town, highest populated mountain valley in the Dominican Republic at 1,300 meters (4,264 feet) above sea level. Arriving in town on the back of a pickup truck, descending on the winding road out of the hills and into the city, might herald one of the best views in the country on public transportation.

Because of the chilly temperatures that drop as low as 5˚C (41˚F) in the winter, local farmers are able to grow crops unusual for the island such as roses, apples, garlic, and strawberries.

Greenhouse with tropical flowers for export

Perfect for the outdoor enthusiast, Constanza boasts challenging hikes, natural attractions, and adventure sports. The paths through the Ébano Verde Scientific Reserve are cool and lush, often blanketed by thick fog in the morning. On hot days in the valley, locals and visitors head to the tallest waterfall in the Antilles, Aguas Blancas. Farther into the Cordillera Central is the Valle Nuevo Scientific Reserve, perfect for pitching a tent and hiking through the pine forests. Across the city of Constanza are relics of distinct ethnic enclaves, once part of Trujillo’s campaign to both “whiten the race,” and also introduce diverse agricultural techniques to the region. The four enclaves include La Colonia Japonesa, Húngara, Kennedy, and Española. While the Hungarians of Colonia Húngara and the Americans of Colonia Kennedy are long gone, descendents of the Japanese and Spanish settlers still maintain strong identities.

Farm to table is not just a fad, it's a way of life in Constanza.

Where to Eat

Aguas Blancas Restaurant

Aguas Blancas has a monopoly on Constanza-style gourmet, combining local products to make exquisite dishes like cream of celery root soup or guinea hen al vino for probably the tastiest food in town. A must try are Doña Emilia Caceres’ inventive desserts, such as the carrot or passion fruit flan. Behind the restaurant, there is a small, plain hotel, in case delicious food must be within shouting distance. RD$120-350; 10am-10pm; 54 C/ Rufino Espinoso; 539-1561

Esquisiteces Dilenia

Locals relaxing in park after the midday meal

Specializing in oven-roasted lamb and dulce de fresa (strawberry sweets), this restaurant is oozing with rustic charm from its exposed pine walls to its cabin-inspired furniture and locally grown flowers adorning every table. RD$200-360; 10am-10pm; 7 C/ Gaston F. Deligne, by Banco Popular; 539-2213

Where to Sleep  

Alto Cerro

With options for all budgets, including luxurious villas, standard hotel rooms, and camping spaces, this resort situated on the mountainside is far enough from the center of town to enjoy the peace and fresh air of the high mountain valley. Each villa feels like an alpine cabin, boasting a balcony to enjoy one of the best views of the Constanza surroundings. On-site activities and amenities include an exotic garden, fire pit, barbecues, zip line, soccer field, basketball court, gym, spa, and horseback riding. US$20-43; 2km on the highway to La Vega, across from the airport; 539-1553/1429; reservas@altocerro.com; www.altocerro.com

What to Do

Aguas Blancas

View from top of Ébano Verde 

This cascading set of waterfalls is located at an altitude of 1680 meters (5512 feet) above sea level, is the highest in the Caribbean basin, and according to the locals, the coldest on the island, with an average temperature hovering at 10°C. The first section drops 53 meters (174 feet) in height and the second, 38 meters (125 feet). Located near the small village of El Convento, 14 kilometers on the road into Valle Nuevo

La Pirámide y el Monumento a Francisco Caamaño Deñó

Located in Parque Nacional Valle Nuevo, this tall stone structure marks the geographical center of Hispaniola. Built by Trujillo, the pyramid is the probably last thing the unsuspecting traveler would imagine in this remote park.

Lichen at Ébano Verde

On the other side of the highway is the monument to Francisco Caamaño Deñó, hero of the 1965 uprising to defend the democratically elected government of Juan Bosch.

Ébano Verde

A verdant scientific reserve with winding trails, Ébano Verde is perfect for a daylong excursion. The reserve is home to over 80 species of orchids and is blanketed by the brilliant green of ferns and lichen. There are a number of bridges crossing small streams throughout the forest, which all feed into El Arroyazo (“huge stream”) – providing a refreshing reward at the end of the hike. Visits should be arranged through Fundación Progressio (565-1422; fund.progressio@codetel.net.do) or Constanza’s Tourism Office.