Mountain Dreaming: Jarabacoa

Morning in Jarabacoa

Vibrant, cool, and filled with charm, the mountains around Jarabacoa are speckled with enchanting villages, beautiful scenery, and perfect spots for outdoor adventure. Jarabacoa, the largest town in the Cordillera Central, is home to almost 30,000 people, besides all of the weekend visitors. Despite being a major destination, the town maintains an intimate and friendly atmosphere.

Jarabacoa is home to three rivers and therefore to an array of sports like whitewater rafting, kayaking, canyoneering, swimming, biking, hiking, and even hang-gliding.

View from Aroma de la Montaña

Where to Eat

La Fleca Panadería

Flaky croissants and crusty artisanal breads are among the specialties of this cute café as well as sinful desserts and savory finger foods. RD$75- 120; 574-4811; Located on C/ Independencia near the Caribe Tours stop and across from Esso Gas; lipebeltran@hotmail.com; www.laflecajaraba.com

Aroma de la Montaña

For a 180-degree view of the valley of Jarabacoa and the mountains that surround it, head to this upscale restaurant at the Jamaca de Dios hotel. Save room for the fine desserts: the brownie packed with chocolate chips, coconut, almonds, and rum is a favorite. RD$170-990; Located in Jamaca de Dios hotel near the village of Pinar Quemado on the road to Manabao; 829-452-6867/6878; www.aromadelamontana.com

Where to Sleep

A typical country cabin just outside of town

Ramírez Tours

Owned by the energetic Jarabacoa native Altagracia Ramírez, this small company is a wonderful resource for those interested in renting short- or long-term cabins. Señora Ramírez also offers ideas about excursions and other tourism services in the area.

36 Av. La Confluencia; 574-6604; 399-6748; U.S. phone: 347-827-2824; Ramíreztours4@gmail.com

Angostura

A community organization provides rustic eco-lodges in the remote village of Angostura. The three environmentally friendly lodges sleep six people, and the bathrooms are connected to a biodigestor that powers the complex. The organization offers hiking, horseback riding, and whitewater rafting excursions. In addition, trained guides lead Pico Duarte tours that begin at the La Ciénaga trailhead. Approximately three kilometers south of Manabao; contact Marite at 910-7520 or Inocencia at 829-539-8753

Gran Jimenoa

Salto de Jimenoa Uno

Living up to its tagline of “a hidden paradise,” the resort of Gran Jimenoa is certainly the most luxurious in the valley, with an impressive collection of orchids, impeccable landscaping, and excellent service. Though all of the rooms feature large windows, ask for one of the spacious rooms facing the Río Jimenoa to enjoy the view and sound of its powerful beauty. RD$1,225- 14,900 per room; Av. La Confluencia, Los Corralitos; 574-6304/4345; hotel.jimenoa@codetel.net.do; www.granjimenoahotel.com

What to Do

Salto de Jimenoa Uno

This first waterfall on the Río Jimenoa is hidden in the forest, only accessible via a good long hike through the woods. This waterfall is not only 60 meters high but also plunges into a refreshing swimming hole below. The entrance fee directly supports community members who serve as guides. RD$100 foreigners, RD$50 Dominicans; 7 kilometers on the highway toward Constanza next to a restaurant; (motoconcho RD$80-100; taxi RD$250); 271- 8580; 829-828-7708; interpretesdelasmontanas.7@hotmail.com

Salto de Jimenoa Dos

The hike to these 40-meter-high falls is much easier, including crossing a few narrow hanging bridges surrounded by verdant woodlands. The short walk the ends at the stunning waterfall and bathing area. RD$100; 5 kilometers on the highway to La Vega, go right at the fork with well-marked signs

Rancho Baiguate

Whitewater rafting on the Yaque del Norte River In business since 1975, this company run by the Rodríguez-Ros family offers a multitude of adventure sports while maintaining strong ties to the environment and surrounding communities. Nearly all of its employees are from Jarabacoa, and the ranch has implemented environmentally friendly practices. Although the ranch is all-inclusive, it also offers a la carte activities, like rafting, rappelling, horseback riding, hiking to Pico Duarte, mountain biking, canyoneering, and a zip-line course. Prices vary depending on package; 574-6890, from the U.S. 646-727-7783; rancho.baiguate@verizon.net.do; reservas@ranchobaiguate.com; www.ranchobaiguate.com

MWVA

A country kitchen of a local about to invite you in for coffee

A small art school, café, and cultural center with local artisanal crafts for sale, this is the place to meet up with creative locals. Stop by for exhibitions of painting, sculpture, photography, film, and music. On Friday and Saturday, there are cultural activities, including live music, starting after 6pm for free or minimal cover. 19 C/ Independencia at C/ Duarte; 574-7055; mwvagaleriadearte@hotmail.com; Open Mon-Fri until 6pm.

For more information, check out the chapter on Jarabacoa in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide).