Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Top Beaches near Puerto Plata: Sosua


Playa Alicia (Playa Santa) of Sosua
More tranquil than Puerto Plata and Cabarete, but still with its unique sense of coastal charm, Sosúa attracts a slightly older and less rowdy crowd than its frenzied neighboring cities. The city center and the beaches are small, and therefore is easily navigable on foot. Playa Sosúa connects Sosúa's two distinct barrios: Los Charamicos in the west, less developed and with very few foreigners, and the now ironically named El Batey, the "downtown" and more tourist-oriented section of Sosúa.

Sosúa's short history has a fascinating origin. In 1940, the dictator Rafael Trujillo offered asylum to about 700 Jewish refugees in this tiny farming village. Though most have left, they began Sosúa's development, and it is now one of the larger towns on the North Coast. Its international nature lives on, as tourism is the roaring engine of Sosúa's commerce.

Where to Eat

Batatica
Finding authentic eats right by the beach can be tricky. Luckily, there is Batatica (“small sweet potato”), named after a local who went by that nickname. Tucked off the main drag, this spot draws a purely Dominican crowd. The conch shell and fish are specialties, and the prices are the best in town. RD$125-175; 133 C/ Pedro Clisante (Note that the restaurant is actually located on a side street off C/ Pedro Clisante marked with a large sign; every mototaxi driver knows where to find it if you are unable to); 809-571-1558

Waterfront Restaurant
Waterfront Restaurant
The fancy awning, upscale décor, and bluff-top location shouldn’t scare off, but rather welcome budget travelers. Though Waterfront is a classy establishment, the charming owner complemented his upscale fare with half-price daily specials, and smaller items for less than RD$200, as well as a generous happy hour from 5 to 7pm. Tantalizing and unique dishes include calamari in ink over black rice, or the extravagant plato de cinco mares with shrimp, crayfish, conch shell, calamari, and fish. RD$100-600; 1 C/ Dr. Rosen (where the street ends); 571-3024;            829-755-6068; sainz.andres@gmail.com; Free Wi-Fi

Where to Sleep

Hotel El Rancho
Tacky isn’t a problem unless you make it one, so don’t mind its presence here, where kitsch equals fun. El Rancho offers 17 comfortable poolside rooms with tropically bright interiors. Groups and those with a larger budget ought to look out for the apartments with kitchens and the sweet penthouse. Check out the casual snack bar, serving fast food and drinks, located in the lobby. US$40-155; 36 C/ Dr Rosen; 571-4070; www.hotelelranchososua.com/3.html

Patio of Piergiorgio Palace Hotel
Piergiorgio Palace Hotel
Assuredly the most charming hotel in Sosúa, this hotel was built in the Dominican image of the neo-Victorian style, right on water’s edge. Rooms are well-lit, with a view of the ocean. They are elegantly simple, compared to the grandeur of the rest of the hotel: perfectly manicured gardens, leafy trees, gurgling fountains, and multiple white balconies peer over the seawall. US$95-250; 809-571-2626/2786; piergirorgio@codetel.net.do; www.piergiorgiopalace.com

What to Do

Playa Sosúa
Full of families, expats, and loquacious vendors, Playa Sosúa is the archetypal Dominican beach. Though not very broad, the beach stretches far, connecting the two major barrios of Sosúa,  and bringing in tourists, merchants, and locals to enjoy sand and sea. As it curves inside a bay, the water is calm, perfect for a leisurely swim. Snorkeling is therefore especially popular, as the reef reaches almost to the shore, providing a haven for marine life.

Playa Alicia (Playa Santa)
This cozy beach is a short landing of sand below steep and rocky cliffs. It is most accessible from a staircase by the Waterfront Restaurant, offering stunning views of the sea from on high. The beach spontaneously (and mysteriously) appeared in 2002, when an underwater earthquake supposedly moved a sand bar, causing the ocean to recede and leaving this tidy little beach in its wake.

Merlin Dive Center
For beginner scuba divers and snorkelers, a lesson is a must to take advantage of the wealth of tropical underwater beauty. Merlin offers both intro classes and trips and dives for all levels of expertise, as well as daylong to weeklong certification packages. Las Caobas, at the beginning of Sosúa beach; 809-545-0538; info@merlin-diving.com; merlin-diving.com

Museo Judío
Museo Judío
Small in size but long on chutzpah, the Museo Judío in Sosúa documents the fascinating history of the spirited group of Jewish refugees who slipped through the grasp of Hitler's Europe and thrived in a strange, foreign environment. The museum showcases pictures, artifacts, and articles in a half-dozen languages along the walls of the building. The synagogue used by the community still stands, warm with wood and earthy colors; ask the guard to open it for a short, self-guided tour. There are prayer services on select holidays. RD$100; Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm and 2pm-4pm, Sat 9am-1pm; C/ Alejo Martínez by C/ Dr. Rosen; 809-571-1386

Nightlife
For better or worse, Sosúa has earned the reputation of being the red light district of the North Coast. That being said, where that exists, there is bound to be decent nightlife. The center of town is full of bars and restaurants, especially along C/ Dr. Rosen, C/ Alejo Martinez, and C/ Pedro Clisante along the beach. Always take care in poorly lit areas, but downtown Sosúa is generally safe.

For a full description of where to stay, eat and have fun, check out the complete Sosúa  Chapter in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide)!   

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Top Beaches Near Puerto Plata: Cabarete

Cabarete Beach
Just 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long, Cabarete is a thriving, thumping seaside destination.  A far cry from the sleepy fishing village it once was just a couple short decades ago, Cabarete today shines as the destination for independent tourism on the north coast. Hugging a simple two-lane highway are thousands of hotel rooms, dozens of cafés, bars, restaurants, and a wide expanse of palm tree-studded sandy beach. Days in Cabarete are bustling, warm, and sunny; its nights are nothing but hot.

Cabarete was transformed in the late 1980s after area beaches were discovered to have ideal conditions for windsurfing and kiteboarding. The town is now a haven for these new adventure sports, as well as hiking in the nearby hills. Of course, lounging on a reclining beach chair with a drink in hand is a perfectly respectable way to pass time on the sandy expanses.

Outdoor Dining along Cabarete Beach
Where to Eat and Drink

Panadería Dick
Much like with their cured meats, Germans don’t loaf around when it comes to bread – Panadería Dick is the best bakery and pastry shop in Cabarete. Right in the middle of town, this restaurant’s breakfasts run around RD$100 for eggs, toast, and coffee. RD$50-100; Thu-Tue 7am-6pm; C/ Principal; 571-0612; panarolfdick@yahoo.com

José O'Shays
There is no beachside watering hole better known or more perfectly located than José O’Shays. It might be the quintessential Irish pub, except for the fact that its draft beer is Presidente and it serves pitchers of caipirinhas alongside Irish Car Bombs. The sea breeze and crashing waves outside compete with sports on a half-dozen televisions, watched by expats of all stripes. RD$100-450; C/ Principal in the center of town; 571-0775; www.joseoshay.com

Jose O'Shay's at Night

Bambú Bar
A deceivingly quiet restaurant during the day, Bambú cranks up the music after dark, ascribing to the “if you blast it, they will come” philosophy of nighttime entertainment. The party, lasting late into the night, spills out of the tiered dance floor onto the beach, where sweaty revelers take breathers and quaff Presidente. RD$100-300; restaurant 9am-11pm, bar until very late; C/ Principal; 982-4549

Friendly Cabarete Locals
Where to Sleep

Casa Blanca
Cool and Canadian-owned, this budget hotel has splendid tropical garden and delicious pool. See about the rooftop pad for 360-degree views of the beach and countryside. US$20-60; 113 C/ Principal next to Janet’s; 571-0934 or 935-0809

Kite Beach Hotel
The upscale Kite Beach Hotel offers spacious accommodations decorated with modern sculpture and paintings. Guests enjoy the on-site pool and restaurant and take comfort in the 24-hour security and gated parking lot. Special rates are available for kite-surfers getting lessons with Kitexcite (see below). US$59-US$600; just east of Extreme Hotel; 571-0878; kitebeachhotel@gmail.com; www.kitebeachhotel.com;

What to Do

Kitebeach
Kiteboarding
Quite the sight from happy hour on the beach, the brightly colored kites of boarders across the bay from Cabarete Beach contrast with the deep blue color of the Caribbean waters. Kiteboarding, almost unheard of 15 years ago, is quickly gaining interest and popularity. Conditions at Cabarete are near perfect during almost the entire year for kiteboarding. Bozo beach, between Kitebeach and Cabarete Beach, is also a kiteboarding hotspot. www.cabaretekiteboarding.com

Windsurfing
Windsurfing appeared in Cabarete in the 1980s as the sport began to experience international growth. The beaches around Cabarete offer that rare environment perfect for windsurfing: good winds and calm surf. Windsurfing season runs from December through April, when waves are the best, and again from June through September, with placid waters. Various companies offer windsurfing rentals and lessons.


Kiteboarding & Windsurfing Companies
Kitexcite: Kite & Surf Center at the western entrance of Cabarete; Stefan (manager) 829-962-4556; http://www.kitexcite.com/
Bozo Beach Kite Club: 571-0285; 866-1754; info@noworkteamcabarete.com;

Cabarete Coffee Company (CCC)
CCC caters to the responsible tourist, offering full-day coffee (US$100) and cacao (US$75) tours into the mountains. Beyond exploring the processing of both crops, the tours also include meals and transport. The cacao tour is local, taking place in the mountains by Cabarete, while the coffee option removes tourists to the Jarabacoa-area farm of Julia Alvarez, author of In the Time of the Butterflies. CCC began Haitian relief efforts after the earthquake and also offers internships to local youth. C/ Principal; 571-0919; info@cabaretecoffeecompany.com; www.cabaretecoffeecompany.com

For a full description of where to stay, eat and have fun, check out the complete Cabarete chapter in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide)!   

Monday, May 13, 2013

Top Beaches near Puerto Plata: Introduction

"Cristo Redentor" Overlooking Puerto Plata
Plenty of travelers fly into Puerto Plata’s Gregorio Luperon airport (POP) to bypass Santo Domingo – a great idea for a short stay aimed just at the beaches that might not include the big city. But where to go once you arrive? The sandy spots in Puerto Plata itself are nothing to write home about. Below are three of our favorite beaches in the area, which we’ll profile over the next month. They’re all within an hour’s drive of Puerto Plata: Sosua, Cabarete, and Playa Encuentro.

Sosua

Sosua is the first big town east of Puerto Plata. Founded in the 40s as a sanctuary for Jewish refugees from Europe, it’s now turned into a beach town with a very distinct European influence. There are two beaches in the city, but the larger, called Playa Sosua, is a wonderful place to spend a day or two. As it’s located inside a bay, the water is calm - perfect for a leisurely swim. Snorkeling is therefore especially popular, as the reef reaches almost to the shore. Behind the beach is a long stretch of stone boardwalk lined with vendors hawking souvenirs and dishes from across the pond, like wurst and schnitzel.

Playa Alicia (a.k.a. Playa Santa) of Sosua
Cabarete

The rowdiest beach town in the country, Cabarete is a party day and night. Not to be forgotten, however, is the quality of its beach. The sand curves languorously, though the waves here are a bit stronger than in Sosua. The town’s bars, restaurants, and nightlife back up directly onto the sand, so that you can take in the view while you enjoy fresh fish, a Santo Libre, and the people-watching.

Seashell Salesman in Cabarete
Playa Encuentro

Unlike the other two, Encuentro is not part of any town. In fact, it’s a bit isolated, which is why we love it. The strong waves are some of the best on the island for surfing, and the sand is often deserted save a few vendors serving just-caught-and-fried fish with refreshing Presidentes. It’s just you, sand, and sea. The beach is accessible by public transport (like the others), but getting there with your own car is much more convenient.

Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Overnight Trips from Santo Domingo


Windsurfing in Las Salinas Beach, trekking in Rio Blanco, and psychedelic mosaic art in Bonao are all within a few hours’ drive of Santo Domingo. Escape the noise and the heat of the city, and take off to one of our favorite overnight trips from Santo Domingo.

Overnight Trip 1
Glistening Salt Flats, Mangos, and Windsurfing: Las Salinas, Baní


Mural of Baní
Named after a prominent Taíno cacique, Baní means “abundant water” in Taíno, even though the city sits at the edge of the driest part of the country. The city was formally established in 1764, but when Haitian General Dessalines invated in 1805, his troops burned the town to the ground. Banilejos (residents of Baní) now proudly proclaim their home as the town of liberators and poets, including Enrique Montaño and Pedro Landestoy Garrido. Among the most famous Banilejos is Generalísimo Máximo Gómez y Báez (1836-1905), who served in the Dominican army when it was under Spanish control during the re-annexation of the 1860s. Gómez later left for Cuba and helped that country win independence from Spain.

Typical Architecture in Baní

Baní is perhaps best known for its tremendous diversity and production of mangos. The season’s pinnacle is celebrated during the Feria del Mango, which takes place every June and includes dozens of types of mangoes – as well as a huge party. Salt is another major product from the area, extracted from the mines by the beach in Las Salinas.

Do: Playa Las Salinas - Salt Mines

On the way to Las Salinas Beach are a series of sand dunes, known as Las Dunas, whose unusual beauty is worth a photo. While this beach isn’t the best the South has to offer, it is a relaxing place to cool off from the hot Southern climate. From the beach, blinding white piles of salt, harvested from the surrounding salt flats, shimmer under the South’s unobstructed sun. The mine’s manager will gladly let visitors take back a handful of this crucial condiment and local moneymaker.

 To get to Las Salinas, head southwest toward the coast on Carretera Máximo Gómez. Pick up this highway by turning left at the Isla Gas Station located on the highway leading out of Baní heading west (Parador Baní is on the right). Drive to the end of the road and turn right and pass through the towns of Villa Sombrero and Matanzas. Keep going until the coast and follow signs for Las Salinas. You can also pick up a guagua (RD $ 80; 20min; hourly 7am-6pm) at the stop located a few blocks south of El Mercado Público.

Hotel Las Salinas
Sleep: Hotel Las Salinas

Right on the water, this hotel’s 35 rooms are adorned with bright white linens that contrast the dark wooden furniture, and though they come with A/ C, the ocean provides a refreshing breeze. The hotel draws both a wealthy Dominican crowd and windsurfing fanatics, who have been visiting the hotel since it held a windsurfing competition in 1988. Offering a private beach, pool, glamorous chaise-lounges, and a dock with a gazebo, Las Salinas Hotel creates an exclusive atmosphere without breaking a traveler’s budget.
RD $ 2000-3000; Puerto Hermosa; on the right on the main road through Las Salinas; 809-866-8141, 809-310-8141; hotel_salinas@ hotmail.com, www.hotelsalinas.net

Overnight Trip 2 
Bonao and the Río Blanco Ecotourism Complex  

Central Park in Bonao
Bonao is the first city on the highway north out of Santo Domingo, about an hour’s drive away. It is bounded on one side by seemingly endless rice paddies, and on the other by the rapidly rising rock of the Cordillera Central. Bonao began, like many other towns, as an outgrowth around a fort; this one built in 1495 by the Columbus expedition.
Modern Bonao is a two-industry town: rice production and mining. In the foothills outside of town are one of the largest mines in the country, with enormous impact on Bonao employing a plurality of residents, but also has environmental consequences. Bonao is also proudly home to artist and master painter Cándido Bidó, and there is a fascinating museum here in his honor.
Visit www.bonaocityrd.blogspot.com, a local website dedicated to local news, sports, and music, for updates on local happenings in the city.

Mosaic Bathroom: "The Throne"
Do: Casa Museo Tiburcio

The Casa Museo Tiburcio, known by locals as La Casa de Piedra, is worth a stop in the town of Bonao before heading to the Río Blanco Ecotourism Complex (see below). Home of the Bonao artist Cristian Tiburcio, along with his wife and three children, the house is made entirely of ceramic and stone mosaics, from the walls to the beds - and even the blender. Bright tiles form figures like fish and animals, but the house features the artist’s signature piece: eyes. Tiburcio uses eyes as a form of self-portraiture, producing an often-overwhelming sensation in its visitors.

Mosaic Bedroom:"Bosque de los Sueños"

One particularly impressive area is in the bedroom called Bosque de los Sueños (Forest of Dreams), where the bedroom’s toilet is literally a throne covered inside and out with colorful tiles. The artist studied under the Dominican master Bidó, whose influence is apparent in Tiburcio’s use of color, especially Bidó’s classic hues of blue and orange. The first floor is the only space with white walls, used to display the artist’s paintings, sculpture, and mosaic pieces. His home-as-project began in 1998, and continues to be a work in progress with plans that call for an outdoor theater and community park.
 12 C/ Los Pinos, Urbanización Falconbridge; contact Cristian at 809-525-2972 or 809-304-6510; cristiantiburcio@ yahoo.com; www.casamuseotiburcio.com

Sleep: Río Blanco Ecotourism Complex,  Hoyo del Pino

Seventeen kilometers uphill from Bonao into the deep, piney forests of the Cordillera Central is the small valley village of Hoyo del Pino. In 2004, community members founded a non-profit dedicated to the conservation of the area around a tributary of the Yuna River, one of the largest watersheds in the Dominican Republic. The Río Blanco Ecotourism Complex provides a peek into the wilderness and coffee farms around the village. Locals and seasoned experts guide hiking treks, birding tours of endemic and migratory species, and visits to mountain-cold swimming holes. Other attractions include one of the highest waterfalls in the country; coffee production, demonstrations, and tastings; and a stop at a bamboo artisan’s workshop. A natural history museum is in the works. The complex has its own kitchen and lodging, and proceeds go to ecosystem preservation efforts and improving economic opportunities for families living around the project area.
Guide service, which is required for some activities, is RD $50. 809-310-5767; contacto.coeturb@gmail.com; https://sites.google.com/site/visitacoeturb/; https://www.facebook.com/COETURB

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Day Trips from Santo Domingo


Santo Domingo is known for its dynamic nightlife, striking colonial architecture, and hip-swaying rhythms, but after seeing the sights, visitors and locals alike sometimes need a break from the big city. Luckily, there are a number of quaint towns within a few hours of Santo Domingo that provide new perspectives on the DR’s rich culture and natural beauty. Here are two of our favorite day trips from Santo Domingo.

Day Trip 1

Mountains and a Typical Dominican Town: San Cristóbal

View of San Cristobal Province 
The province of San Cristóbal, home to over 220,000 inhabitants, is less than an hour's drive from the capital. For such a small area, it's comprised of a variety of microclimates, from the cool and humid coffee-carpeted mountains in the north, to the sunny, stone-dotted beaches of Palenque and Najayo in the south. Man-made creations such as the well-stocked Valdesia Dam attract fishing fanatics, but all visitors can marvel at the resplendent mountain views along the small village byways. A number of cave systems including the Cuevas de Pomier (or Borbón), covered in pictographs, offer glimpses of the indigenous civilizations’ way of life.

While adventurous travelers will see the great potential throughout the province, the city of San Cristóbal presents a different kind of authentic Dominican culture. Famous for being the birthplace of Trujillo, the city is a tangled mess of motorcycles and guaguas, destroying pleasant strolls in their wake. There are, however, a few interesting sights: Trujillo’s mansions like El Cerro, and the abandoned Casa de Caoba. These paired with a decadent meal at Aubergine (see below) make for the perfect day trip from Santo Domingo.

Eat: Restaurante Aubergine

Restaurante Aubergine
Jutting out from a mountainside overlooking the peaks and valleys of San Cristóbal, this avant-garde restaurant fuses Asian, German, and other flavors to create a multi-layered journey for the senses. Try any of the German chef’s ever-changing inventions with exotic meats or one of the namesake dishes, such as fried eggplant roulettes topped with chili con carne -- a terrific blend of Mexican and Thai. The desserts are equally imaginative: white chocolate avocado ice cream topped with eye-catching fresh strawberry sauce and poppy seeds.

RD$390-960; La Colonia Km 6 ½ past Cambita en route to Los Cacaos; 809-374-1382, 809-729-9364; harald@codetel.net.do; www.aubergine.com.do. For public transport either take a carro público (RD $ 40; 15min) to Cambita from the Mercado in San Cristóbal, and then a motoconcho (RD $ 100; 15min) to the restaurant or take a guagua (RD $ 50; 30min) going to Los Cacaos, which also leaves from the Mercado. Tell the cobrador to leave you at Aubergine (where the German is – “donde el aleman”) in La Colonia.

Day Trip 2

Beach Time and Fresh Seafood: Juan Dolio

Fisherman in Juan Dolio Beach
Located 52 kilometers (32 miles) east of Santo Domingo, the white sand beach and placid aquamarine water at Playa Juan Dolio are close enough to the capital to make for an excellent day trip. Most of the beach, though bordered by walled vacation homes, is pleasingly quiet, allowing sunbathers to enjoy it unobstructed.

Eat: Pepek Namornick

With tables directly on the beach, this Russian-owned seafood restaurant offers international fare in an elegant but casual setting featuring wicker chairs, a respectable wine selection, and a naturally-treated wooden bar. Start with one of various salads such as the iron-rich Ensalada Popeye (the restaurant’s namesake), followed by filet mignon with Roquefort or grilled shrimp.
RD$300-700; C/ Principal Plaza Perla Mar I; 809-526-1890

Eat 2: Restaurante El Sueño

Juan Dolio Beach at Sunset
On the weekends, this Italian-owned, open-air restaurant with an ocean view is bustling with Italian expats and capitaleños pining for steaming plates of pastas, thin crust pizzas, and succulent seafood dishes. Try the arugula and prosciutto pizza or the ravioli stuffed with lobster, and finish the meal with cool, smooth gelato.
RD$380-700; C/ Principal




Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Whale Watching in the Dominican Republic




Humpback Whale Tale
Every winter, from mid-January through mid-March, humpback whales travel to the warm waters of the Caribbean for calving and mating. Upward of 5,000 whales find themselves right in Samaná Bay, in the northeastern part of the country. Across great distances, the male can be heard attracting his prospective mates with his call or seen with his impressive displays of virility through breaching and creative flipper- and tail-wagging. Whale watching excursions in Samaná Bay provide some of the most extraordinary visions of humpback activity. The Bay can be accessed by boat from a number of towns including Samaná, Sabana de la Mar, Punta Cana, and Las Galeras.

Wherever you choose as a starting point, be sure to go with a reputable tour company that follows all whale watching regulations such as:

         Minimize speed/"no wake" speed
         Avoid sudden turns
         Minimize noise
         Do not pursue, encircle, or come in between whales
         Approach animals from angles where they will not be taken by surprise
         Minimize number of boats at any one time/per day to reduce cumulative impact

Samaná

One of the most dependable and reasonably priced outfitters is Whale Samaná, owned by Canadian Kim Beddall. An animal advocate and conservationist, Kim first arrived to the DR in 1983 and then made a career of her love for these majestic creatures. She conducts trips on 55' Custom Whale Watch Vessels with VHF radio and follows regulations to prevent interrupting mating patterns. If no whales make an appearance during the excursion, Kim will honor tickets for a future trip. Soft drinks, crackers, and anti-nausea medication (often necessary in the choppy waters outside Samaná Bay) included.
US$50 plus $3 Sanctuary fee, Children under 10: US$25; Jan 1- Feb 15 at 10:00 AM; Feb 16-Mar 9 at 9 AM and 1:30 PM; kim@whalesamana.com; www.whalesamana.com.

Sabana de la Mar

Whale watching season is the time to visit the natural grounds and water views of Ceyba Park in the Sabana de la Mar region. Eden Tours operates trips out of the park with stops at the area’s gorgeous natural attractions like Playa Esmeralda. Outside whale watching season, the park is still well worth a visit, as it hosts a refreshing set of swimming holes – one freshwater and two saltwater – to enjoy year round. There is also a restaurant in the park, though it’s not known to be well-stocked.
Park is on the Sabana de la Mar – Miches highway just outside Miches. For Eden Tours, contact Jumbo: 980-7903; jumbomiches@yahoo.com; www.hotel-limon.com

Punta Cana

The possibilities offered at resorts in Punta Cana are endless, but during whale watching season, many resorts offer package tours. We encourage on outing like this to experience the country’s natural beauty outside of the resort. Check with your respective resort for schedules and prices.

Boca del Diablo in Las Galeras

An impressive blowhole located just before entering Las Galeras, this natural phenomenon is a worthwhile trek – especially during whale watching season, as it provides a rare land-based vantage point to catch these incredible mammals in action. Because Boca del Diablo is on the way to Playa El Frontón, it is a great addition to a day at the beach: It combines some decent hiking and a unique geological formation with a lazy day at one of the most isolated and lovely beaches in Samaná.
Getting there is a bit tricky as there are no signs and the walking trail is not well maintained. The smartest way to arrive is to befriend a local to guide you, or at least show you the entrance to the trail from the Samaná-Las Galeras highway. En route, you will pass through the community of La Cueva, where you can also stop for directions.