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| Carrots, bananas and other produce flourish in the Sierra |
Untainted by commercial tourism, the mountain town of Ocoa
has maintained a tranquil pace of life. Fray Bartolomé de las Casas, known for
denouncing the enslavement of the Taínos, made the first written reference to
San José de Ocoa in the 16th century when he described the then
sparsely-populated Taíno province of Maniey. The region became known as El
Maniel in the early 17th century when runaway slaves, or cimarrones, took refuge there. Ocoa continues to be a rural haven
for its 60,000 inhabitants, who live primarily off small-scale agricultural
production. The most common crops are avocados and potatoes, which blanket the
ridges and valleys surrounding town.
Where to Eat
Surrounding the park are a few food options including Hotel
Marien serving traditional Dominican fare (RD$100-250; corner of C/ San José
and C/ Pimentel), and the sandwich joint on the park’s east side that also blends
up fresh fruit smoothies (RD$30-150).
Hotel Baco
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| A peaceful existence in Ocoa |
Serving up inexpensive Dominican food, this hotel-restaurant
always has a generous plate of the day, as well as a hearty Cuban sandwich.
Wash it down with the deliciously original oatmeal carrot juice, or
fresh-squeezed cherry juice. RD$100-150;
Corner of C/ Duvergé and C/ 16 de Agosto; 558-2368
Where to Sleep
Hotel-Restaurant El Barcón
Centrally located and reasonably priced, this hotel has
modest, tidy rooms with simple but bright decorations and a restaurant that is
open all day. RD$400-1200; Corner of C/
Canada and C/ San José
Rancho Francisco
This serene enclave surrounded by broad trees and set along
a babbling stream is certainly the most comfortable accommodation in Ocoa. Cool
off in either the guests’ private pool or mix it up with the locals in the
larger pool open to the public. Order up the stewed goat at the restaurant, and
check out the bachata bands that perform regularly. RD$1000-1500 for a room and RD$200-400 for the restaurant; located 1km
south of Ocoa on Highway 41
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| A corn field blanketing the Sierra |
What to Do
El Parque Central
Vines wrap around mature trees, children chase each other in
the central gazebo, and neighbors gather on the shady benches to catch up on
the latest gossip or the previous evening’s baseball games in this small,
pleasant green refuge in the center of town.
Mercado (El Reguero)
Located on Calle Duvergé, this Thursday-only outdoor market
is full of housewares, shoes, and clothing from pacas (huge bundles of clothing donated from North America) that
reach the hands of vendors through mysterious ways.
Ocoa-Constanza Scenic Highway
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| Oxen-towed plows replace tractors on these steep ridges |
Traversing the Sierra de Ocoa into Cordillera Central, this
tremendous rocky dirt highway steers through the agricultural villages of La
Horma, and then wanders among the conifers of the Valle Nuevo National Park,
eventually reaching Constanza’s high valley perch. Read more here.
Presa de Jigüey
La Presa (dam) is not recommended for actual swimming, but
the challenging road to get there offers some excellent views of Ocoa
(four-wheel drive is required). Pack a picnic and enjoy the water views, while
talking up some local fishermen.
To learn more, check out the chapter on San José de Ocoa in Dominican Republic (Other Places TravelGuide).
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