Top Beaches near Puerto Plata: Sosua

Playa Alicia (Playa Santa) of Sosua

More tranquil than Puerto Plata and Cabarete, but still with its unique sense of coastal charm, Sosúa attracts a slightly older and less rowdy crowd than its frenzied neighboring cities. The city center and the beaches are small, and therefore is easily navigable on foot. Playa Sosúa connects Sosúa's two distinct barrios: Los Charamicos in the west, less developed and with very few foreigners, and the now ironically named El Batey, the "downtown" and more tourist-oriented section of Sosúa.

Sosúa's short history has a fascinating origin. In 1940, the dictator Rafael Trujillo offered asylum to about 700 Jewish refugees in this tiny farming village. Though most have left, they began Sosúa's development, and it is now one of the larger towns on the North Coast. Its international nature lives on, as tourism is the roaring engine of Sosúa's commerce.

Where to Eat

Batatica

Finding authentic eats right by the beach can be tricky. Luckily, there is Batatica (“small sweet potato”), named after a local who went by that nickname. Tucked off the main drag, this spot draws a purely Dominican crowd. The conch shell and fish are specialties, and the prices are the best in town. RD$125-175; 133 C/ Pedro Clisante (Note that the restaurant is actually located on a side street off C/ Pedro Clisante marked with a large sign; every mototaxi driver knows where to find it if you are unable to); 809-571-1558

Waterfront Restaurant

Waterfront Restaurant

The fancy awning, upscale décor, and bluff-top location shouldn’t scare off, but rather welcome budget travelers. Though Waterfront is a classy establishment, the charming owner complemented his upscale fare with half-price daily specials, and smaller items for less than RD$200, as well as a generous happy hour from 5 to 7pm. Tantalizing and unique dishes include calamari in ink over black rice, or the extravagant plato de cinco mares with shrimp, crayfish, conch shell, calamari, and fish. RD$100-600; 1 C/ Dr. Rosen (where the street ends); 571-3024;            829-755-6068; sainz.andres@gmail.com; Free Wi-Fi

Where to Sleep

Hotel El Rancho

Tacky isn’t a problem unless you make it one, so don’t mind its presence here, where kitsch equals fun. El Rancho offers 17 comfortable poolside rooms with tropically bright interiors. Groups and those with a larger budget ought to look out for the apartments with kitchens and the sweet penthouse. Check out the casual snack bar, serving fast food and drinks, located in the lobby. US$40-155; 36 C/ Dr Rosen; 571-4070; www.hotelelranchososua.com/3.html

Patio of Piergiorgio Palace Hotel

Piergiorgio Palace Hotel

Assuredly the most charming hotel in Sosúa, this hotel was built in the Dominican image of the neo-Victorian style, right on water’s edge. Rooms are well-lit, with a view of the ocean. They are elegantly simple, compared to the grandeur of the rest of the hotel: perfectly manicured gardens, leafy trees, gurgling fountains, and multiple white balconies peer over the seawall. US$95-250; 809-571-2626/2786; piergirorgio@codetel.net.do; www.piergiorgiopalace.com

What to Do

Playa Sosúa

Full of families, expats, and loquacious vendors, Playa Sosúa is the archetypal Dominican beach. Though not very broad, the beach stretches far, connecting the two major barrios of Sosúa,  and bringing in tourists, merchants, and locals to enjoy sand and sea. As it curves inside a bay, the water is calm, perfect for a leisurely swim. Snorkeling is therefore especially popular, as the reef reaches almost to the shore, providing a haven for marine life.

Playa Alicia (Playa Santa)

This cozy beach is a short landing of sand below steep and rocky cliffs. It is most accessible from a staircase by the Waterfront Restaurant, offering stunning views of the sea from on high. The beach spontaneously (and mysteriously) appeared in 2002, when an underwater earthquake supposedly moved a sand bar, causing the ocean to recede and leaving this tidy little beach in its wake.

Merlin Dive Center

For beginner scuba divers and snorkelers, a lesson is a must to take advantage of the wealth of tropical underwater beauty. Merlin offers both intro classes and trips and dives for all levels of expertise, as well as daylong to weeklong certification packages. Las Caobas, at the beginning of Sosúa beach; 809-545-0538; info@merlin-diving.com; merlin-diving.com

Museo Judío

Museo Judío

Small in size but long on chutzpah, the Museo Judío in Sosúa documents the fascinating history of the spirited group of Jewish refugees who slipped through the grasp of Hitler's Europe and thrived in a strange, foreign environment. The museum showcases pictures, artifacts, and articles in a half-dozen languages along the walls of the building. The synagogue used by the community still stands, warm with wood and earthy colors; ask the guard to open it for a short, self-guided tour. There are prayer services on select holidays. RD$100; Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm and 2pm-4pm, Sat 9am-1pm; C/ Alejo Martínez by C/ Dr. Rosen; 809-571-1386

Nightlife

For better or worse, Sosúa has earned the reputation of being the red light district of the North Coast. That being said, where that exists, there is bound to be decent nightlife. The center of town is full of bars and restaurants, especially along C/ Dr. Rosen, C/ Alejo Martinez, and C/ Pedro Clisante along the beach. Always take care in poorly lit areas, but downtown Sosúa is generally safe.

For a full description of where to stay, eat and have fun, check out the complete Sosúa  Chapter in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide)!   

Top Beaches Near Puerto Plata: Cabarete

Cabarete Beach

Just 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) long, Cabarete is a thriving, thumping seaside destination.  A far cry from the sleepy fishing village it once was just a couple short decades ago, Cabarete today shines as the destination for independent tourism on the north coast. Hugging a simple two-lane highway are thousands of hotel rooms, dozens of cafés, bars, restaurants, and a wide expanse of palm tree-studded sandy beach. Days in Cabarete are bustling, warm, and sunny; its nights are nothing but hot.

Cabarete was transformed in the late 1980s after area beaches were discovered to have ideal conditions for windsurfing and kiteboarding. The town is now a haven for these new adventure sports, as well as hiking in the nearby hills. Of course, lounging on a reclining beach chair with a drink in hand is a perfectly respectable way to pass time on the sandy expanses.

Outdoor Dining along Cabarete Beach

Where to Eat and Drink

Panadería Dick

Much like with their cured meats, Germans don’t loaf around when it comes to bread – Panadería Dick is the best bakery and pastry shop in Cabarete. Right in the middle of town, this restaurant’s breakfasts run around RD$100 for eggs, toast, and coffee. RD$50-100; Thu-Tue 7am-6pm; C/ Principal; 571-0612; panarolfdick@yahoo.com

José O'Shays

There is no beachside watering hole better known or more perfectly located than José O’Shays. It might be the quintessential Irish pub, except for the fact that its draft beer is Presidente and it serves pitchers of caipirinhas alongside Irish Car Bombs. The sea breeze and crashing waves outside compete with sports on a half-dozen televisions, watched by expats of all stripes. RD$100-450; C/ Principal in the center of town; 571-0775; www.joseoshay.com

Jose O'Shay's at Night

Bambú Bar

A deceivingly quiet restaurant during the day, Bambú cranks up the music after dark, ascribing to the “if you blast it, they will come” philosophy of nighttime entertainment. The party, lasting late into the night, spills out of the tiered dance floor onto the beach, where sweaty revelers take breathers and quaff Presidente. RD$100-300; restaurant 9am-11pm, bar until very late; C/ Principal; 982-4549

Friendly Cabarete Locals

Where to Sleep

Casa Blanca

Cool and Canadian-owned, this budget hotel has splendid tropical garden and delicious pool. See about the rooftop pad for 360-degree views of the beach and countryside. US$20-60; 113 C/ Principal next to Janet’s; 571-0934 or 935-0809

Kite Beach Hotel

The upscale Kite Beach Hotel offers spacious accommodations decorated with modern sculpture and paintings. Guests enjoy the on-site pool and restaurant and take comfort in the 24-hour security and gated parking lot. Special rates are available for kite-surfers getting lessons with Kitexcite (see below). US$59-US$600; just east of Extreme Hotel; 571-0878; kitebeachhotel@gmail.com; www.kitebeachhotel.com;

What to Do

Kitebeach

Kiteboarding

Quite the sight from happy hour on the beach, the brightly colored kites of boarders across the bay from Cabarete Beach contrast with the deep blue color of the Caribbean waters. Kiteboarding, almost unheard of 15 years ago, is quickly gaining interest and popularity. Conditions at Cabarete are near perfect during almost the entire year for kiteboarding. Bozo beach, between Kitebeach and Cabarete Beach, is also a kiteboarding hotspot. www.cabaretekiteboarding.com

Windsurfing

Windsurfing appeared in Cabarete in the 1980s as the sport began to experience international growth. The beaches around Cabarete offer that rare environment perfect for windsurfing: good winds and calm surf. Windsurfing season runs from December through April, when waves are the best, and again from June through September, with placid waters. Various companies offer windsurfing rentals and lessons.

Kiteboarding & Windsurfing Companies

Kitexcite: Kite & Surf Center at the western entrance of Cabarete; Stefan (manager) 829-962-4556; http://www.kitexcite.com/

Bozo Beach Kite Club: 571-0285; 866-1754; info@noworkteamcabarete.com;

www.noworkteamcabarete.com

Cabarete Coffee Company (CCC)

CCC caters to the responsible tourist, offering full-day coffee (US$100) and cacao (US$75) tours into the mountains. Beyond exploring the processing of both crops, the tours also include meals and transport. The cacao tour is local, taking place in the mountains by Cabarete, while the coffee option removes tourists to the Jarabacoa-area farm of Julia Alvarez, author of In the Time of the Butterflies. CCC began Haitian relief efforts after the earthquake and also offers internships to local youth. C/ Principal; 571-0919; info@cabaretecoffeecompany.com; www.cabaretecoffeecompany.com

For a full description of where to stay, eat and have fun, check out the complete Cabarete chapter in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide)!   

Top Beaches near Puerto Plata: Introduction

"Cristo Redentor" Overlooking Puerto Plata

Plenty of travelers fly into Puerto Plata’s Gregorio Luperon airport (POP) to bypass Santo Domingo – a great idea for a short stay aimed just at the beaches that might not include the big city. But where to go once you arrive? The sandy spots in Puerto Plata itself are nothing to write home about. Below are three of our favorite beaches in the area, which we’ll profile over the next month. They’re all within an hour’s drive of Puerto Plata: Sosua, Cabarete, and Playa Encuentro.

Sosua

Sosua is the first big town east of Puerto Plata. Founded in the 40s as a sanctuary for Jewish refugees from Europe, it’s now turned into a beach town with a very distinct European influence. There are two beaches in the city, but the larger, called Playa Sosua, is a wonderful place to spend a day or two. As it’s located inside a bay, the water is calm - perfect for a leisurely swim. Snorkeling is therefore especially popular, as the reef reaches almost to the shore. Behind the beach is a long stretch of stone boardwalk lined with vendors hawking souvenirs and dishes from across the pond, like wurst and schnitzel.

Playa Alicia (a.k.a. Playa Santa) of Sosua

Cabarete

The rowdiest beach town in the country, Cabarete is a party day and night. Not to be forgotten, however, is the quality of its beach. The sand curves languorously, though the waves here are a bit stronger than in Sosua. The town’s bars, restaurants, and nightlife back up directly onto the sand, so that you can take in the view while you enjoy fresh fish, a Santo Libre, and the people-watching.

Seashell Salesman in Cabarete

Playa Encuentro

Unlike the other two, Encuentro is not part of any town. In fact, it’s a bit isolated, which is why we love it. The strong waves are some of the best on the island for surfing, and the sand is often deserted save a few vendors serving just-caught-and-fried fish with refreshing Presidentes. It’s just you, sand, and sea. The beach is accessible by public transport (like the others), but getting there with your own car is much more convenient.

Dominican Caranval and Independence Day

 Carnaval Costume Typical to Puerto Plata, DR

Today is Independence Day in the Dominican Republic, celebrated as the day the country won freedom from Haiti in 1844. Today is also the last day of Carnaval, which is celebrated on Sundays during the entire month of February - and today. These celebrations feature parades lasting the entire day, involving thousands of participants wearing elaborate costumes, marching along major thoroughfares of every town and city. Each location has its own unique details, from costumes to music, dance, food, and drink.

The most recognizable aspect of the Carnaval tradition revolves around the colorful costumes, topped off by intricately designed masks. Many of the costumes represent diabolical spirits, known as diablos cojuelos – perhaps the most jovial devil costumes around. Others include animal or human representations. Bells, seashells, and other baubles sewn on to the costumes add to the sensory experience of these visually stimulating spectacles.  In cities across the country, groups compete against each other for best costume prizes.

Detail of  Carnaval Cape

Watching the parade is the best way to participate in Carnaval, but beware – standing too close to the route will make the onlooker become a participant. Many of the parade walkers wield vejigas, or inflated bladders (formerly pig; now synthetic). They flail these vejigas at the backsides of unsuspecting spectators and other marchers, resulting in monumental bruises by the end of the day. Besides this somewhat violent aspect of the parades, there’s also tasty street food, rum and cold beer, music, and games to round out the day.

There is no better place to revel in Carnaval than in La Vega, an otherwise industrial town south of Santiago.  The city center explodes in excitement from early in the morning until late at night every Sunday. The parade routes across dozens of city blocks, and the all-day party culminates in fireworks and a concert in a nearby square. As mentioned above, the largest celebration happens today, timed to coincide with Independence Day. Dominicans from across the country visit La Vega at least one weekend in February and if possible, travel on this day to revel in the fanfare that commemorates their nation’s most important holiday.

La Vega: Costumed parader and visitors.

Three Four-Wheel Drives Not to Miss

The pessimist might see an unpaved, muddy road winding along precipices and think “no way.”  A true traveler says, “yet another adventure.”  The Dominican Republic is full of bumpy, rural roads that pass by thundering rivers, unbridled vegetation and local color.  With nerves of steel, an eye for beauty and an all-terrain vehicle, the intrepid vacationer is ready to see the DR’s natural hideaways beyond bland resort walls. Here are three scenic routes that will satisfy anyone’s lust for the road less traveled.  Just be sure to bring extra gasoline, a spare tire, extra food and water, a flashlight and a two-way radio. 

La Horma, San José de Ocoa

1. Ocoa-Constanza Scenic Highway 

Traversing the Cordillera Central, this rocky dirt road meanders down from Constanza’s high valley perch, wanders among the conifers of the Valle Nuevo national park, and then finally steers through the agricultural villages of the La Horma to eventually reach the town of San José de Ocoa.

The entire trip is approximately 78 km, but hurricane season in the DR occasionally gives the route an unplanned face-lift, carving out sides of mountains and making deeper cuts into the already curvy road.

The views range from the arid, grassy plains outside Ocoa, changing into the green hills speckled with brightly painted wooden homes of La Horma to the lofty, pine-covered peaks of Valle Nuevo and Constanza. Natural wonders like the Antilles’ tallest waterfall (1680m or 5512ft), Aguas Blancas, and perpetually fog-covered ridges punctuate the route, adding to the majestic feel of this exciting mountain ride.

2. Biosphere Reserve Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo (La Placa & El Aguacate Trails)

Pines of the Sierra de Bahoruco

This highway running along the Dominican-Haitian border is a naturalist’s utopia. Accessible through the mountaintop savannah of Puerto Escondido, the highway teeters along the Sierra de Bahorucodown into Jaragua National Park until finally reaching Pedernales, the coastal border town known for the spectacular turquoise waters and contrasting cactus-covered terrain of Bahia de las Aguilas.

Just outside of Puerto Escondido after passing numerous rows of avocado trees is the entrance to La Placa, a 3 km hiking trail where the great majority of endemic and resident birds can be seen and heard. Early mornings around 5-7am and then again in the evening at 4-6pm are the best times to hear the birdsong, when thirty different species come to socialize and search for food. Spanish moss hangs from the low-growing trees that envelop the trail. Creamsicle-colored butterflies flutter from tree to tree, especially the cañafistol, which shoots off vibrant yellow blooms. A visitor’s cabin and camping sites here allow for easy access to an early morning trek or departure.  Don’t forget bug repellant and binoculars! 

Daisy-Covered Mountains past La Placa

Continuing on past La Placa, the road worsens significantly leading to El Aguacate, a border stronghold from the Trujillo era.  Sections of the road consist of large rocks and when it rains, the road becomes impassable.  Only the highly skilled all-terrain driver should attempt the trail.  El Aguacate is the convergence point of the Sierra de Barohuco and Charco Azul, a protected area covering approximately 280 square kilometers.  It is also the site of a Haitian-Dominican produce market on Tuesdays and Fridays.  The name of the settlement, meaning avocado in Spanish, comes from the acres of trees brimming with this buttery green fruit grown in the region.  

Sierra de Bahoruco at Sunset

Ascending from El Aguacate, the climate and vegetation changes from humid to coniferous forest covered with ferns and lichen.  The air is cool and infused with the smell of pine.  The road continues along the Dominican–Haitian border, offering vantage points of the dramatic differences in forest coverage between the two countries. On Haiti’s side, the hills are a bedraggled brown, completely stripped of vegetation, while the Dominican side remains lush and dense thanks to protective and reforestation measures over the past several decades.  The Ministry of Environment’s maintains a post at El Zapoten to prevent deforestation and partners with Haitian workers  to reforest the area and improve awareness.

The next sign of civilization is at Loma de Toro, where a tower offers a jaw-dropping view of the Caribbean’s largest saltwater lake, Lago Enriquillo, to the east and Haiti to the west, as well as the surrounding mountains of thick piney forest.  The tower is only accessible by foot, so leave the car at the base of the short trail, which is adorned with agave and wild orchids.  

Field of Taro Plants in Los Arroyos

Continuing by vehicle down towards Los Arroyos are the first houses after hours of driving.  The road continues to be in astoundingly poor conditions, despite it being a major transit route for agricultural products from the area.  As the road nears Pedernales, it will pass over Río Bonito and by multiple cascading pools, perfect for a cool dip.   

In order to reach the entrance of the Biosphere Reserve Jaragua-Bahoruco-Enriquillo, enter through the community of Puerto Escondido, accessible via the town of Duvergé.  Passing through Duvergé from the south (Barahona), turn left on Calle Nuestra Señora del Carmen and continue straight until the hydroelectric    plant.  Turn left at the sign for Embalse las Damas and drive about 30 minutes until the mountains open up into the plateau of Puerto Escondido.

3. La Carretera Turística

Cable Car Overlooking Puerto Plata

This “touristic highway” is anything but touristy, snaking its way through the lush and vertiginous Cordillera Septentrional - and often devoid of cars. Though it runs from Santiago to the coast near Puerto Plata, it is a far cry from the much busier paved highway with eighteen-wheelers barreling by on the four-lane road to the north coast. Instead, try this carretera that climbs and dips, pothole-strewn, through mountainside rural communities. It is a more direct route between the two cities, at about half the distance, but because of its hilly terrain and poor condition, could take twice as long to traverse.

Beyond being a beautiful drive, the road hosts a number of small attractions. Many of these cluster around the village of La Cumbre ("the summit"), situated high atop this gorgeous set of tumbling hills. Be on the lookout for a small outlet run by elderly ladies. These women create intricately weaved straw hats, bags and other accessories. The hilltop area is home to several amber mines, which is why there are a number of stands selling amber (ambar, in Spanish) goods. Because they come directly from the source, handmade amber jewelry here is much cheaper here than at any tourist shop in the capital, and the workers can gain a higher share of proceeds.

The Mirabal Sisters

It was also just past La Cumbre on this road where the Mirabal sisters took their last, fateful journey. In 2008, the municipal and national governments inaugurated a monument to the assassinated sisters – as well as their driver – in the place where, 48 years prior, the foursome were apprehended and killed by members of Trujillo’s forces. There are plans to convert the area around the monument into an ecological reserve. For a break from the drive, stop at Rancho La Cumbre, a restaurant serving typical Dominican fare with stunning views of the Cibao valley from its deck and terrace (Open every day, 10:00am - 11:00pm. 656-1651).

The highway leaves Santiago as Av. Bartolomé Colón, then narrows and begins its ascent. Its other outlet is at the community of Monte Llano on the north coast, five kilometers east of Puerto Plata.