Escape from Punta Cana!

Your highly anticipated vacation to an all-inclusive resort in the Dominican Republic has finally arrived. With a bottomless umbrella drink in hand, you hit up the decadent buffets, try a trapeze course, and tell yourself that you don’t need sunscreen for that Caribbean sun because it’s all about getting that base tan. Then hour 48 hits, and that Top 40 mix for the water aerobics class is starting to fry your brain, and you forget whether you are in the Dominican Republic or some other tropical island. Not to worry, there is a way out so that you truly remember your vacation to the DR. Here’s how to escape from Punta Cana:

Get Away for the Day

La Basilica

When investors first started to develop Punta Cana in the late 60s, they found infertile land adorned by limestone outcroppings and sand patches, but not much else. Besides a few small farms and fishing villages, the area was undeveloped jungle.

Much has changed since then, as the mass-appeal resorts of Bavaro continue to extend farther north up the coast and the luxury resorts of Cap Cana extend further south. Despite all of this development, there are few places visitors can go within Punta Cana since the region is saturated with all-inclusives that require strict reservations for entry. However there are a few towns that are suitable for a day trip:

Higüey

Known for La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia, Higüey is a bustling town that recently underwent a beautification campaign, resulting in many more green spaces and trees across the city center. Dedicated in 1972, the Basílica is one of the most important houses of worship for Catholics in the country, and the most visited site for religious pilgrims on the island. Built in the contemporary-utilitarian Dominican style of architecture (that is, entirely of cement), its parabolic arches represent a modern twist on the typically gaudy Catholic cathedrals. A visit to the Basílica paired with some local eats at one of the restaurants along Av. Hermanas Trejo, such as Cotubanamá or D’Yira Restaurant, make for the perfect afternoon outing.

Casa Museo Ponce de Leon

San Rafael de Yuma/Boca de Yuma

Simply called Yuma by the locals, this area caught the interest of Spanish explorer Ponce de León in 1503 because of its proximity to the navigable Río Yuma. León played a key role in subjugation of the local Taínos, for which he was rewarded with the title of Governor in this region of the colony. Today’s Yuma is a minor town, where the main attraction is the Casa Museo de Ponce de León (Entrance RD$50; to arrive, when entering the town of Yuma, veer left at the fork and turn left on Carretera Los Jobitos just before the cemetery, where there is a sign for Casa Museo de Ponce de León. Follow the road about 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) down and the museum will be on the right; Mon–Sat 7am–5pm).

After taking in the 16^th century architecture and belongings of Leon’s home, head 20 minutes west to Boca to Yuma, a sleepy fishing village set on tremendous cliffs overlooking the sea. What this town lacks in terms of entertainment, it makes up for in charm and home-style cuisine.  Try one of the many fish-fry huts along the coastline. Or, before entering the town, turn left at the sign for Restaurant Bahia Azul, which serves fresh-caught fish with hearty portions of rice, beans, and fried plantains. If you decide you want to stay, try Hotel El Viejo Pirata (RD$1200; When the main road through town ends at the coast, turn right at the hotel's sign, after which the hotel will be on the right; 780-3236/804-3151/780-3464; nancy.felix@hotmail.com; hotelelviejopirata@hotmail.com).

 Take off for a night

Kids Playing at Costa Esmeralda

Costa Esmeralda

The placid aquamarine waters that gently lap virgin white sand catapults this beach to among the top in the country. Accessible by boat, horseback, or scenic drive, the beach is set in a protected bay, leaving the water smooth and clear with few waves. Development has yet to touch the pristine sands of this beach, meaning Esmeralda has no accommodations. There are no stores or restaurants nearby, so bring your own snacks (and rum).

To reach the beach by foot from the nearby town of Miches, walk east along the beach and ask a local to show you the footpath that cuts through the forest to the other side of the point (seen to the east of Playa Arriba). The walk takes about an hour and a half. Be safe and go in a group and don’t carry valuables as the trail is isolated. By car, drive east toward the town of La Mina for about 8.8 kilometers (5.5mi). Just beyond La Mina, find the turnoff to Playa Esmeralda, marked by a Brugal sign. Follow the dirt road and go left at the fork until the road runs parallel to the beach (veer right). Continue until reaching the far eastern end of the beach, which is the best section for swimming. This area is just past the Marina de Guerra office. Boat and horseback riding trips to Costa Esmeralda are also available through Coco Loco Hotel (US$15-25, which includes breakfast; located on Playa Arriba; follow C/ Pedro A. Morel de Santa Cruz toward the coast and then make a right at the beach; 886-8278, 974-8182), which is also one of the better options for lodging. 

Antique Sailboats at Bayahibe

One of the other great natural attractions in the area is Montana Rodonda (located about 17 kilometers (11 miles) east of Miches). It features a 360-degree view of the coast, two lagoons, verdant surrounding hills, and electric green rice fields.

Bayahibe

The small but quite lively fishing town of Bayahibe is located on the edge of the Parque Nacional del Este, making it an excellent place to overnight while enjoying the islands, caves, and trails of the beautiful park. The attractive town meanders around the placid bay, offering a number of attractions: an archaeological dig with artifacts dating back over 4,000 years, shallow fresh springs with unique histories, locally-run jewelry and art workshops, and historical sailboats still in use today. 

A Local Musician Enjoying Bayahibe's Sunsets

After spending the day exploring the natural wonders of the national park or savoring some perfectly grilled lobster, rest at Hotel Bayahibe (RD$1300-2000; C/ Principal, 833-0159/0045; hotelbayahibe@hotmail.com; www.hotelbayahibe.net) or rent a cabana from Cabanas La Bahía (RD$800-RD$1200; 710-0881).

Dancing in Santo Domingo 

Going Rogue

You got a taste of what the DR has to offer, and you can’t imagine spending one more day stuck in resort confines. Whether you are looking for hang-gliding in the pine-covered mountains, incredible live music and night-life in Santo Domingo or a quiet boutique hotel near virgin beaches, the DR has got it all.  Find out more from Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide).

Artisanal Jewelry in the Dominican Republic

From the shells that wash up on white sand beaches to the seeds of the fire-red Flamboyan tree, the Dominican Republic is full of natural inspiration and materials that Dominican artisans have crafted into striking jewelry.  The materials that occur naturally in each region of the country influence the unique designs of the area. Artisans from coastal towns like Bayahibe utilize shells of different colors, shapes, and sizes for their elaborate necklaces, earrings and belts; Barahuco’s creative class mines potential in the sky-blue stone, larimar, that is found only in the local hills; and the artisans of Benerito, a town nestled by the East’s grazing pastures, heat and shape cow horn to make rustic yet sheik accoutrements. Admirers of these gorgeous handicrafts take home thoughtful and unique gifts, while also supporting a budding economy of creative minds who come from humble circumstances. Below are several examples of community-based artisan groups and their beautiful products.

Playa Guayacanes, East of Santo Domingo

Playa Guayacanes, a Source of Inspiration and Materials

Les Ateliers de Chantal

At this beachside workshop, French owner Chantal and volunteers train local youth in ceramics, painting, and artisan crafts. Along with their locale in Los Guayacanes, Chantal also established her ateliers in poor barrios of Santo Domingo in order to target at-risk youth and provide them with both a creative outlet and a vocation. The beautiful creations - like intricate clay-bead necklaces and funky coconut shell belts - are for sale in the workshop’s storefront, the proceeds of which support their educational efforts.

Playa Guayacanes is located between Playa Caribe and Juan Dolio east of Santo Domingo along Av. Las Americas; 526-3077; solaidom@yahoo.com

Larimar, Found Only in the Sierra de Barahuoco

Barahuoco, West of Barahona

Larimar

The famous blue stone called larimar is found nowhere else in the world but the few hills in which it is mined in the Sierra de Bahoruco. Father Miguel Domingo Fuertes Loren, a Spanish priest, was the first to discover this semi-precious stone in the early 1900s, but it took until 1974 that Miguel Méndez and Peace Corps Volunteer Norman Rilling rediscovered the stone and brought it to wide commercial success. Méndez named the stone after a combination of his daughter’s name, Larissa, and the Spanish word for the sea, “mar.” 

Larimar is a type of pectolite, a volcanic rock. The stone’s captivating hues of blue, ranging from a light sky blue with hints of green to a deep cerulean, are a result of the existence of cobalt in the stone, unique to larimar in the pectolite family.    

To purchase larimar straight from the artisans, head west from Barahona in the Southwest to their workshops near the entrance of Casa Bonita in Barahuoco, where artisans grind, shape and polish larimar, then place it in sterling silver settings. Darker tones of blue with fewer white veins are considered to be more precious, and therefore will more expensive than the lighter varieties. Though you might need to negotiate a bit, the prices are far more reasonable than those found in the tourist centers in Santo Domingo, and interacting with the artists themselves is much more pleasant and informative than street hawkers in the city. In addition, purchasing the jewelry here means that proceeds go to the artisans, instead of middlemen.

Km. 17 Carretera de la Costa, Bahoruco

Artisans from Benerito

East of La Romana

Artecuseco de Benerito 

Located in the small, poor community of Villa Padre Nuestro in Benerito, this artisan group sprung from a few simple courses offered through IDDI, a government educational and development organization. The local women’s association formed the artisan group in 2007, and has advanced tremendously in terms of skill and design through the efforts of a Peace Corp volunteer and outside artisan teachers. 

Necklaces Comprised of  Cow horn, Seashells and Seeds

The women use natural material such as seashells, seeds, cow horns, wood, gourds (higüeros), and coconut shells to make rustic yet lovely jewelry. The pieces make excellent gifts not only for their originality, but also because the sale of such items goes directly into the pockets of the women who make them. The women are planning to construct a permanent workshop, but until then, the best way to see their creations is to contact them directly to visit one of their homes.

RD$100-250 earrings and RD$250-800 for necklaces; Contact Esmeralda, 829-741-3507 or Ani, 829-741-3509; artecuseco@gmail.com

Leni, an Artisan of Bayahibe Modeling her Work

Asociación de Artesanos La Rosa de Bayahibe

This artisan association in the town of Bayahibe is composed of individual artists who use local and recycled materials such as driftwood, seeds, and shells to make jewelry, dolls, and miniature sailboat replicas. In 2008, a Peace Corps volunteer helped the group form an association and begin marketing to the tourism industry. The group’s creations are on display in the center of Bayahibe, outside the Super Colmadón Bayahibe.

Necklaces and Earrings Made of Seashells and Seeds

Several members of the association maintain their own workshops, where visitors can see the artisans at work. Try catching the artists known as Gauba and Negro working on model boats of the traditional Bayahibe sailboats, or Leni creating her signature dolphin necklaces. If in town for Patronales, be sure to stop by the artisan booth, where artisans from Bayahibe as well as from Padre Nuestro’s Artecuseco in Benerito display their wares. Find the group on Facebook under the name “La Peresquia de Bayahibe”

833-0017/829-520-9154; larosadelbayahibe@gmail.com