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| Playa Alicia (Playa Santa) of Sosua |
More tranquil than Puerto Plata and
Cabarete, but still with its unique sense of coastal charm, Sosúa attracts a
slightly older and less rowdy crowd than its frenzied neighboring cities. The
city center and the beaches are small, and therefore is easily
navigable on foot. Playa Sosúa connects Sosúa's two distinct barrios: Los Charamicos
in the west, less developed and with very few foreigners, and the now
ironically named El Batey, the "downtown" and more tourist-oriented
section of Sosúa.
Sosúa's short history has a fascinating
origin. In 1940, the dictator Rafael Trujillo offered asylum to about 700
Jewish refugees in this tiny farming village. Though most have left, they began Sosúa's development, and it is now one of the larger towns on the North Coast.
Its international nature lives on, as tourism is the roaring engine of Sosúa's commerce.
Where to Eat
Batatica
Finding
authentic eats right by the beach can be tricky. Luckily, there is Batatica (“small
sweet potato”), named after a local who went by that nickname. Tucked off the
main drag, this spot draws a purely Dominican crowd. The conch shell and fish
are specialties, and the prices are the best in town. RD$125-175; 133 C/ Pedro Clisante (Note that the restaurant is actually
located on a side street off C/ Pedro Clisante marked with a large sign; every
mototaxi driver knows where to find it if you are unable to); 809-571-1558
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| Waterfront Restaurant |
Waterfront Restaurant
The
fancy awning, upscale décor, and bluff-top location shouldn’t scare off, but rather
welcome budget travelers. Though Waterfront is a classy establishment, the
charming owner complemented his upscale fare with half-price daily specials,
and smaller items for less than RD$200, as well as a generous happy hour from 5
to 7pm. Tantalizing and unique dishes include calamari in ink over black rice,
or the extravagant plato de cinco mares
with shrimp, crayfish, conch shell, calamari, and fish. RD$100-600; 1 C/ Dr. Rosen (where the street ends); 571-3024; 829-755-6068; sainz.andres@gmail.com; Free Wi-Fi
Where to Sleep
Hotel El Rancho
Tacky
isn’t a problem unless you make it one, so don’t mind its presence here, where
kitsch equals fun. El Rancho offers 17 comfortable poolside rooms with
tropically bright interiors. Groups and those with a larger budget ought to
look out for the apartments with kitchens and the sweet penthouse. Check out
the casual snack bar, serving fast food and drinks, located in the lobby. US$40-155; 36 C/ Dr Rosen; 571-4070;
www.hotelelranchososua.com/3.html
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| Patio of Piergiorgio Palace Hotel |
Piergiorgio Palace Hotel
Assuredly
the most charming hotel in Sosúa, this hotel was built in the Dominican image
of the neo-Victorian style, right on water’s edge. Rooms are well-lit, with a
view of the ocean. They are elegantly simple, compared to the grandeur of the
rest of the hotel: perfectly manicured gardens, leafy trees, gurgling
fountains, and multiple white balconies peer over the seawall. US$95-250; 809-571-2626/2786;
piergirorgio@codetel.net.do; www.piergiorgiopalace.com
What to
Do
Playa Sosúa
Full of families, expats, and
loquacious vendors, Playa Sosúa is the archetypal Dominican beach. Though not
very broad, the beach stretches far, connecting the two major barrios of Sosúa, and bringing in tourists, merchants, and locals to enjoy sand and sea. As it curves
inside a bay, the water is calm, perfect for a leisurely swim. Snorkeling is
therefore especially popular, as the reef reaches almost to the shore,
providing a haven for marine life.
Playa Alicia (Playa Santa)
This cozy beach is a short landing of sand below steep and rocky cliffs. It is most
accessible from a staircase by the Waterfront Restaurant, offering
stunning views of the sea from on high. The beach spontaneously (and mysteriously)
appeared in 2002, when an underwater earthquake supposedly moved a sand bar,
causing the ocean to recede and leaving this tidy little beach in its wake.
Merlin Dive Center
For beginner scuba divers and
snorkelers, a lesson is a must to take advantage of the wealth of tropical
underwater beauty. Merlin offers both intro classes and trips and dives for all
levels of expertise, as well as daylong to weeklong certification packages. Las Caobas, at the
beginning of Sosúa beach; 809-545-0538; info@merlin-diving.com;
merlin-diving.com
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| Museo Judío |
Museo
Judío
Small in size but long on chutzpah, the Museo Judío in Sosúa
documents the fascinating history of the spirited group of Jewish refugees who slipped
through the grasp of Hitler's Europe and thrived in a strange, foreign environment.
The museum showcases pictures, artifacts, and articles in a half-dozen
languages along the walls of the building. The synagogue used by the community
still stands, warm with wood and earthy colors; ask the guard to open it for a
short, self-guided tour. There are prayer services on select holidays. RD$100; Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm and 2pm-4pm, Sat
9am-1pm; C/ Alejo Martínez by C/ Dr. Rosen; 809-571-1386
Nightlife
For better or worse, Sosúa has earned
the reputation of being the red light district of the North Coast. That being
said, where that exists, there is bound to be decent nightlife. The center of
town is full of bars and restaurants, especially along C/ Dr. Rosen, C/ Alejo
Martinez, and C/ Pedro Clisante along the beach. Always take
care in poorly lit areas, but downtown Sosúa is generally safe.
For a full description of where to stay, eat and have fun, check out the complete Sosúa Chapter in Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide)!
