Your highly anticipated vacation to an all-inclusive resort
in the Dominican Republic has finally arrived. With a bottomless umbrella drink
in hand, you hit up the decadent buffets, try a trapeze course, and tell
yourself that you don’t need sunscreen for that Caribbean sun because it’s all
about getting that base tan. Then hour 48 hits, and that Top 40 mix for the
water aerobics class is starting to fry your brain, and you forget whether you
are in the Dominican Republic or some other tropical island. Not to worry,
there is a way out so that you truly remember your vacation to the DR. Here’s
how to escape from Punta Cana:
Get Away for the Day
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| La Basilica |
When investors first started to develop Punta Cana in the
late 60s, they found infertile land adorned by limestone outcroppings and sand
patches, but not much else. Besides a few small farms and fishing villages, the
area was undeveloped jungle.
Much has changed since then, as the mass-appeal resorts of
Bavaro continue to extend farther north up the coast and the luxury resorts of
Cap Cana extend further south. Despite all of this development, there are few
places visitors can go within Punta Cana since the region is saturated with
all-inclusives that require strict reservations for entry. However there are a
few towns that are suitable for a day trip:
Higüey
Known for La Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Altagracia,
Higüey is a bustling town that recently underwent a beautification campaign,
resulting in many more green spaces and trees across the city center. Dedicated
in 1972, the Basílica is one of the most important houses of worship for
Catholics in the country, and the most visited site for religious pilgrims on
the island. Built in the contemporary-utilitarian Dominican style of architecture
(that is, entirely of cement), its parabolic arches represent a modern twist on
the typically gaudy Catholic cathedrals. A visit to the Basílica paired with
some local eats at one of the restaurants along Av. Hermanas Trejo, such as
Cotubanamá or D’Yira Restaurant, make for the perfect afternoon outing.
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| Casa Museo Ponce de Leon |
San Rafael
de Yuma/Boca de Yuma
Simply called Yuma by the locals, this area caught the
interest of Spanish explorer Ponce de León in 1503 because of its proximity to
the navigable Río Yuma. León played a key role in subjugation of the local
Taínos, for which he was rewarded with the title of Governor in this region of
the colony. Today’s Yuma is a minor town, where the main attraction is the Casa
Museo de Ponce de León (Entrance RD$50; to arrive, when entering the town of
Yuma, veer left at the fork and turn left on Carretera Los Jobitos just before
the cemetery, where there is a sign for Casa Museo de Ponce de León. Follow the
road about 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) down and the museum will be on the right;
Mon–Sat 7am–5pm).
After taking in the 16th century architecture and
belongings of Leon’s home, head 20 minutes west to Boca to Yuma, a sleepy
fishing village set on tremendous cliffs overlooking the sea. What this town
lacks in terms of entertainment, it makes up for in charm and home-style cuisine. Try one of the many fish-fry huts along
the coastline. Or, before entering the town, turn left at the sign for Restaurant
Bahia Azul, which serves fresh-caught fish with hearty portions of rice, beans,
and fried plantains. If you decide you want to stay, try Hotel El Viejo Pirata
(RD$1200; When the main road through town ends at the coast, turn right at the
hotel's sign, after which the hotel will be on the right;
780-3236/804-3151/780-3464; nancy.felix@hotmail.com;
hotelelviejopirata@hotmail.com).
Take off for a night
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| Kids Playing at Costa Esmeralda |
Costa Esmeralda
The placid aquamarine waters that gently lap virgin white
sand catapults this beach to among the top in the country. Accessible by boat,
horseback, or scenic drive, the beach is set in a protected bay, leaving the
water smooth and clear with few waves. Development has yet to touch the
pristine sands of this beach, meaning Esmeralda has no accommodations. There
are no stores or restaurants nearby, so bring your own snacks (and rum).
To reach the beach by foot from the nearby town of Miches,
walk east along the beach and ask a local to show you the footpath that cuts
through the forest to the other side of the point (seen to the east of Playa
Arriba). The walk takes about an hour and a half. Be safe and go in a group and
don’t carry valuables as the trail is isolated. By car, drive east toward the
town of La Mina for about 8.8 kilometers (5.5mi). Just beyond La Mina, find the
turnoff to Playa Esmeralda, marked by a Brugal sign. Follow the dirt road and
go left at the fork until the road runs parallel to the beach (veer right).
Continue until reaching the far eastern end of the beach, which is the best
section for swimming. This area is just past the Marina de Guerra office. Boat
and horseback riding trips to Costa Esmeralda are also available through Coco
Loco Hotel (US$15-25, which includes breakfast; located on Playa Arriba; follow
C/ Pedro A. Morel de Santa Cruz toward the coast and then make a right at the
beach; 886-8278, 974-8182), which is also one of the better options for
lodging.
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| Antique Sailboats at Bayahibe |
One of the other great natural attractions in the area is Montana
Rodonda (located about 17 kilometers (11 miles) east of Miches). It features a
360-degree view of the coast, two lagoons, verdant surrounding hills, and
electric green rice fields.
Bayahibe
The small but quite lively fishing town of Bayahibe is
located on the edge of the Parque Nacional del Este, making it an excellent
place to overnight while enjoying the islands, caves, and trails of the
beautiful park. The attractive town meanders around the placid bay, offering a
number of attractions: an archaeological dig with artifacts dating back over
4,000 years, shallow fresh springs with unique histories, locally-run jewelry
and art workshops, and historical sailboats still in use today.
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| A Local Musician Enjoying Bayahibe's Sunsets |
After spending
the day exploring the natural wonders of the national park or savoring some perfectly
grilled lobster, rest at Hotel Bayahibe (RD$1300-2000; C/ Principal, 833-0159/0045; hotelbayahibe@hotmail.com; www.hotelbayahibe.net)
or rent a cabana from Cabanas La Bahía (RD$800-RD$1200; 710-0881).
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| Dancing in Santo Domingo |
Going Rogue
You got a taste of what the DR has to offer, and you can’t
imagine spending one more day stuck in resort confines. Whether
you are looking for hang-gliding in the pine-covered mountains, incredible live
music and night-life in Santo Domingo or a quiet boutique hotel near virgin
beaches, the DR has got it all.
Find out more from Dominican Republic (Other Places Travel Guide).
